Riverside to Los Angeles

After spending two days at the Rubidoux Ranch, Alonzo left on February 5^th and traveled 18 miles to the Isaac Williams Ranch, in today’s city of Chino, where they stayed for two days. The ranch had extensive vineyards of grapes and peaches. Williams charged 7 dollars per week for beef and cornbread and the privilege of sleeping on the ground.

On February 7^th Alonzo wrote, “Traveled 15 miles. Barrett and myself started for the Pueblo Del Los Angelos and stayed with Mr. Rowland an American farmer from Pittsburgh.” This area of Los Angeles is now known as Rowland Heights.

The Barrett he mentions was a member of their original company from Cleveland OH—an interesting coincidence of names but no relation. When I first read the diary I thought it would be extraordinary if ancestors from my mother and father’s families had traveled the gold rush trail together.

On February 8^th they arrived at the City of Angels, described as, “A great mud city of about 4000 inhabitants, Indians and Spanyards mixed together so that it makes a dark brown compound of inhabitants. One Roman Catholic Church, 3 taverns, several places of trading."

The church, Nuestra Senora Reina de Los Angeles, was originally built in 1781, and replaced by the current building, a replica, in 1822.

Click on the photos to view a larger image

Nuestra Senora Reina de Los Angeles

On Sunday February 10^th he noted, “Moving and looking about town, fine specimens of humanity. Most all with a blanket on and mostly barefooted. Great country this.”

We took the Pomona Freeway from Riverside into Los Angeles. I had looked forward to photographing the historic plaza and Olvera St. filled with people, but we found an empty square, the result of the Pacific storms.

Historic Los Angeles

We headed north toward San Francisco on Hwy 101

Alonzo remained in Los Angeles until February 16^th when he traveled 25 miles south to San Pedro on the coast, probably following the current Alameda St. He met some of his companions there, and on the 17^th, after eight months on the trail, they boarded the ship, Capt. Lincoln, bound for San Francisco and gold.

In Riverside

“Originally a 12-room adobe boarding house, the Mission Inn, a national historical site, has been the keystone of Downtown Riverside since 1876. In the late 1800’s wealthy easterners and Europeans flocked to Riverside in search of a warmer winter climate along with the desire to invest in the area’s profitable citrus industry. By the 1890’s Riverside was the richest city per capita in the United States. This consistent influx of tourists to Riverside made Frank Miller, the Master of the Inn, recognize the dire need for a grand resort hotel.

Frank Miller opened the first wing of his new hotel in 1903. The Mission wing was built in Mission-Revival style architecture and sought to incorporate different structural elements of the 21 California Missions. Mr. Miller went onto add three more wings to his hotel: the Cloister, Spanish, and completed it with the Rotunda wing in 1931.” Excerpted from the Mission Inn website.

Click on photos to view a larger image

Mission Inn ca 1913

Mission Inn Courtyard ca 1913

Hall Near our Room

Inner Court Views

We decided to treat ourselves, after being on the road, to two days at the Mission Inn. I’ve been following the trail of my maternal great, great grandfather, but my father’s family also has a history in Riverside so I had a few items on my list for exploration.

My grandfather, Dr. James T. Barrett, came to Riverside in 1913 as a plant pathologist to work at the newly established Citrus Experiment Station for the University of California. With him came his wife and children. An amateur photographer, he took many photographs of the area.

Former Citrus Experiment Station, Now School of Business

Historical Marker at the Citrus Experiment Station

My father and mother both attended Riverside Junior College and were married in Riverside; the original building of the junior college, where they met, still stands.

Riverside Junior College now Community College

Sherry Barrett Falter, whom I had corresponded with about genealogy on the Internet, took us to lunch at the Mission Inn, and the following morning graciously drove me all over the city as I tried to find the buildings on my list. Of course none of the family homes still exist, having been replaced by commercial buildings or other new construction. I never could have found my way around without her help.

Even though it rained for two days we had a wonderful, restful stay in Riverside, and I enjoyed seeing the landmarks I'd heard so much about from my parents and grandparents.

Barstow to Riverside CA

Barstow, California, on Rte 66, is one of hundreds of towns in this country left stranded by the construction of the interstate highway system. The shopping district along Rte 66 would break your heart with its closed shops, restaurants, and motels.

The enormous rail-yard, with at least fifteen tracks serving freight trains, speaks to its more successful past as does the famous Harvey House Hotel at the edge of the tracks, now deserted and for sale.

Click on photos to view a larger image

Harvey House at left behind white box cars

A fresh new mural on the side of a building caught my eye as it depicted the route of the trail we were following from Salt Lake City to Los Angeles.

Portion of a Mural Depicting the Trail

As Rte 66 continued through Hodge, Helendale, Oro Grande, and Victorville, the effects of the interstate by-pass were evident everywhere.

Remnants of the Interstate

At Victorville we ran into a lot of flooding. The heavy rains, flooding, and fog forced a change in our plans to cross the San Gabriel Mountains into Riverside by taking the original route that Alonzo had followed. Our trip over Cajon Pass on I-15 was tense enough in the torrential rain and fog, but I was disappointed to miss seeing what Alonzo saw.

From Alonzo’s journal,” Packed 15 Miles toward the Sierra Nevada Mts. in full view. The pass for us in sight. All is very grand appearance. We left the Mohave River this morning and bid it farewell. Our allowance is very scanty, but we shall soon be in the land of beef and beans where we can get enough to eat.

“Marched 11 miles. Today we descended a terrible hill into the pass or gorge (and that wonderful and majestic) called the Cahoon (Cajon) Pass of the Sierra Nevada Mts. Traveled down the canyon in the bed of a creek and over rocks no mortal man scarcely ever saw before. . . Got the last we had for supper and that not enough for one man, and lay down on the ground to sleep, being very tired and hungry still. I am a little lame.

“Fine beautiful weather and plenty of green grass. The valleys are green on the western side of the California Mts. Encamped at what is called the Grape thicket where there is dried grapes in abundance and green fields of sweet delight.

"Marched 8 miles to Mr. Rubidoes (Rubidoux) ranch (in Riverside). The first settlement I have seen in California. The buildings are built of adobe, sun dried bricks, flat roofs. We got supper of milk, corn bread, beef and pumpkin sauce. I relished it. The best meal I ever eat. Very hungry and tired. The climate is salubrious. Large herds of cattle and horses are grazing in sweet green fields . . .They work their oxen with sticks tied to their horns for yokes. The ranch house looks more like an old dobie fort than anything else. A clay floor throughout. A large porch all around it. The whole of the building is very large and barn like.”

Ruins of the Rubidoux Ranch ca 1913

Location of the Rubidoux Ranch Today