Nephi to Beaver, Utah

I’ve mentioned many of the towns along the trail that we’ve passed through, but they didn’t exist in 1849. Provo, Utah was the southern-most settlement along the trail at that time. Few of the springs or waterways had been named so Alonzo simply mentions that they camped near water, if they could find it.

He always mentioned how far they traveled each day so by tabulating those figures and learning where some other travelers stopped I was able to guess about where they stopped most nights.

We left Nephi at 11:00 a.m. on a cold day, and continued south along Hwy 28/Old Hwy 91 to Levan in the Juab Valley. Our two-lane road often parallels I-15 and we can see cars and trucks speeding by as we stop to photograph the scenes.

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I-15 from Old Hwy 91

Alonzo noted in his journal, "We lost about 100 head of oxen, this morning we found them 14 miles ahead. The Utah Indians were driving them back. The Indians encamped near us tonight. By accident a revolver supposed not to be loaded which one barrel was, went off and the ball just mist my breat. I was started very much. Yes scart some, but I am safe at present."

We followed Hwy 78 which crossed the Sevier River, between Mills and Scipio, a major stop for travelers to water their stock.

The Sevier River

In less than five minutes the river doubled back and there we saw a small herd of Black Angus cattle drinking in the river. The Pomeroy group was driving a large herd of cattle which always needed sources of water. This scene could have been right out of 1849.

Cattle drinking at the Sevier River

The trail led us through Fillmore, Utah’s first territorial capital. We spent an interesting hour at the Old Statehouse, a red sandstone building begun in 1852, and now a Museum. The statehouse was designed by Truman O. Angell who is also credited with the design of the Temple in Salt Lake City. The original capitol building was to have four wings connected by a Moorish dome. The money ran out after only one wing was completed.

The city and county were named for Millard Fillmore, President at the time; Fillmore became the capital city and Millard the county. In 1858 the capital was moved to Salt Lake City.

The Territorial Statehouse

Original Statehouse Plans

An interesting feature of the museum is a long hall with the walls filled top to bottom with old portraits of the original settlers.

Old Statehouse Photo Gallery

Two Portraits from the Statehouse Gallery

We returned to the “trail” which led through Cove Fort, built in 1867. It was not a military fort, but one constructed under the direction of Brigham Young for protection of the new settlement established there. The 100 square-foot fort is made of lava rock that workers hauled from west of the property. It is 18.5 feet tall, 4 feet thick at the footings, and 2.5 feet thick at the top.

West of Cove Fort

Cove Fort

Our last stop of the day was at Beaver, Utah where we found a comfortable motel. We had time before dark to take a short drive up the dramatic Beaver Canyon east of town. On our way back we witnessed a lovely sunset, a nice ending to an interesting day.

Sunset in Beaver Canyon

Salt Lake City to Nephi

My train arrived in Salt Lake City early, and a short cab ride took me to the motel where my daughter, Rachelle, who will be traveling with me, had arrived earlier.

On Thursday we played tourist and visited the History Museum which is next to the Genealogy Library. It contain many original documents and artifacts from the Overland Trail and the exhibits are exceptional.

A docent there suggested I talk to Mel Bashore, a trail expert, at the History Library. So after our lunch at the Lion House, Brigham Young’s home, the next stop was the History Library. What a lucky introduction that was. Mel Bashore, once he’d heard about my quest, immediately said, “ You need to talk to Michael Landon.” I learned so much from these two gentlemen about the Pomeroy group and the trail to Los Angeles.

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Salt Lake City as Alonzo would have seen it

On the morning of Friday, the 15^th, I returned to the History Library to look at some materials in their archive and also met again with Michael Landon who gave me additional background information and some contact names. Both Michael and Mel Bashore were unbelievably generous with their knowledge and time.

When Alonzo and the Pomerory group left Salt Lake City on November 3, 1849 they traveled southwest toward Big Cottonwood Canyon. We worked our way across the city to Holloway Road that winds its way toward the Canyon and the “Old Mill.”

Big Cottonwood Creek flows from the canyon of the same name and Alonzo spent his first night on the trail from Salt Lake City on its banks. In 1861 the Deseret Paper Mill was built near the creek to provide paper for the Deseret News. The paper was made from wood pulp brought from the canyon and rags from families in the valley.

The “Old Mill” was burned on April Fool’s Day in 1893. It had become somewhat obsolete by that time as it had become cheaper to ship in paper by train. The remaining ruins provide an interesting photo subject.

The Deseret Paper Mill

The "Old Mill" and the Wasatch Mountains

Big Cottonwood Creek

A winding road with spectacular views of the Wasatch Mountains led us down from Cottonwood Heights to Draper.

We spent too much time after American Forks trying to find secondary roads, that Utah declines to mark, so we took the coward’s way out and took I-15 past Provo, Springville, Spanish Fork, Payson, and Santaquin.

We left busy I-15 at the Mona exit and drove west to Hwy 41/Old Hwy 91 which also had no marker, but a quick stop verified we were on the right road. We still travel with the mountains on our left, but now we were in the Juab Valley.

A few miles down the road is Nephi, a name found in the Book of Mormon, where we found a Best Western and spent a comfortable night in a room with a view of the mountains. Alonzo also camped here at Salt Springs.

Deserted Country Store at Mona, Utah

Part II: Salt Lake City to Los Angeles

For those of you expecting to find new trail information posted already, I apologize, Amtrak apologizes, and so does Mother Nature. My cell-phone rang Thursday, January 7^th, as I traveled by train from Grand Rapids to Chicago. Amtrak informed me that the Chicago to Salt Lake City leg of my journey had been canceled due to the frigid weather conditions occurring along the route of my train, the California Zephyr.

Providing great service, they put me up in a lovely hotel overlooking Lake Michigan, paid my cab fare, and my restaurant bills, but by Friday it seemed sensible to return to Grand Rapids and start out again on Sunday.

No, not on Sunday as nature was still misbehaving. To get to the point, if conditions have improved I will be leaving on Tuesday, the 12^th to try again.

A very minor inconvenience compared to the ones my great, great grandfather, Alonzo W. Rathbun, and his companions faced when they traveled the Salt Lake City-Los Angeles route in 1849-1850. Please return and travel with us when we leave the Valley of the Great Salt Lake for Pueblo Los Angeles, soon, I hope.

Salt Lake City

Alonzo wrote Oct. 18, “This morning we looked for a house and found a room in the old fort, about 12 ft. square, a doby house and we moved in.”

Great Salt Lake City Fort, 1848

From Bancroft's History of Utah 1540-1889, Pg. 277

“In March of 1848 the Great Salt Lake City fort contained 423 houses and 1, 671 souls. In the spring of 1849 most of the people who had wintered in the fort moved out onto their city lots, or into the adjoining country.” From The Historical Record, Dec. 1887, Vol. VI, pg. 304.

Alonzo on Oct. 19, “I am going to work at joiner work tomorrow. $1.50 a day and board. I am going to make some 4 panel doors. I never made one but I will try. I am master mechanic until it is proved to the contrary. Blistered my hands finely.”

On his first day in town Alonzo heard about a large company of 200 planning to start on the southern route to Pueblo (current Los Angeles) in about four weeks. On Oct. 23^rd, “I handed in my name to Mr. Pomeroy to be an ox driver in case there was a vacancy.”

The day before Alonzo left on the second leg of his journey to reach the gold fields he noted in his diary, “Yesterday a very strong invitation to take dinner from and with Mr. Capt. Augustus Farn[h]am at his house. I did except (sic), and a good dinner too. I leave some warm friends in the valley, if it is of short acquaint.” Farnham was a Captain on the Mormon wagon train Alonzo and his company traveled with.

On my last morning in Salt Lake City I set out early to get some photos of a few of the most well known buildings around Temple Square.

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Family History Library

Historic Gardens Marker

Museum of Church Art and History

Log Cabin and Museum

Pioneer Log Home Marker

Pioneer Log Home

Morning Meeting in Temple Square

Assembly Hall, built 1882

Tabernacle, home of the Tabernacle Choir

Salt Lake Temple

Begun in 1853 - Dedicated in 1893

Since I do not want to cross the Mojave Desert during the summer months, I’m leaving the trail here in Salt Lake City and heading northwest to Portland OR after following the first segment of Alonzo’s journey. My plan is to pick up the second segment, Salt Lake City to Los Angeles, in November, the same month he began. Of course the gold fields weren’t near Los Angeles, where he arrived mid-February; from there he sailed to San Francisco, outfitted himself, and completed the final leg of his journey to the gold fields.

The Road to the Valley Through Emigrant Canyon

Alonzo wrote on Oct. 16, “We ascended a mountain this morning that was 4 miles to the summit. Some snow and the clouds were below the highest peak. From this summit we could see the southern portion of the Valley of the Great Salt Lake. 3 miles from this summit down to level ground and a terrible road up and down. Another 1 mile hill. Ed and I push the cart and old Blinkey (the horse) up hill. Our horses are just about worn out. Thank God we are near a resting place for them, for they need rest. We are ready ourselves for anything that comes along. Encamped at the foot of the last hill just over it and it was a hard one.”

The relatively easy traveling of the route today allows one to marvel at the variety of landscape and the spectacular views. Probably not the reaction travelers had one hundred and sixty years ago as they maneuvered some of the most difficult roads of the entire journey.

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East Canyon Reservoir

Firs and Birch

Hidden trail

Red rock and hairpin turns

Winding down the mountain

Mountain Dell Reservoir

William Clayton described the last creek to cross in the Emigrants’ Guide, “Last creek. You cross this creek nineteen times. Several of the crossings are difficult. There are several side hills which require care in teamsters. Three camping places on it but the road is rough.”

Alonzo noted the same stretch on Oct. 17, “Drove 10 miles, we crossed the last creek 19 times in 5 miles and the crossings are bad. Today at 11Oclk we did emerge from a deep canyon out into the Valey and our eyes did behold a mud city build of dobies. It is quite a large valley surrounded by mountains, snow on the tops the year round, and the tops of some are above the clouds, a grand view to behold.”

Fort Bridger to Echo Canyon

After leaving Fort Laramie there was no place for travelers to replenish supplies until Fort Bridger, 396 miles farther west. Jim Bridger and Louis Vasquez established the trading post in 1843 specifically to supply wagon trains heading west. At this point the Oregon Trail turned north and those moving west continued to the Great Salt Lake Valley or various California trails. By 1846 many wagon trains were using the Greenwood Cut-off, a more direct route, thus by-passing Fort Bridger.

Alonzo recorded his impressions on October 9^th, “Laid over at Ft. Bridger. Ft Bridger is situated on Black[s] Fork River. Quite an extensive valley, very good feed. Small creek runs through the valley. The Utah Indians are in Lodge here at present. Old man Bridger looks some like Mr. Carter. He (Bridger) is an old miser.”

He is referring to Alonzo Carter, son of Lorenzo Carter who was the first permanent resident of Cleveland. Alonzo Carter was the father-in-law to two of Alonzo Rathbun’s brothers, Stewart and Corydon.

I was interested if anything survived from 1849 and discovered that there was an excellent replica of the original fort.

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Follow the arrow to Bridger's Old Fort

Bridge to Stockade

Brief History of Bridger's Stockade

Entrance to stockade

Early drawing of Fort Bridger & Jim Bridger

The two buildings within the stockade were almost identical, one housed the trading post and the living quarters for Bridger and his family, the other for Vasquez.

Trading post, interior

Bridger's quarters, interior

The Louis Vasquez quarters

Quarters of Luis Vasquez, interior

Old wagon wheels

Corral behind Bridger's Post

Horse Corral

About eighty miles beyond Fort Bridger travelers arrived at Echo Canyon in Utah, today located on I-80. Alonzo recorded his reaction, "The pass down Echo Canyon was like traveling the street of some large depopulated city."

Echo Canyon by William Henry Jackson

Courtesy of the William Henry Jackson Collection, Scotts Bluff National Monument

Echo Canyon, 2009

Imagine the weary travelers, after crossing one thousand hard miles during four long months, learning that the next thirty miles, that would bring them to the Great Salt Lake Valley, were the most difficult stretch of road of the entire journey. Next, The Road to the Valley.

Lander WY to Blacks Fork River

I’m constantly in awe of the varying landscape, and can’t help but imagine what those eastern and mid-western travelers must have thought as they made their way through this larger-than-life country.

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South of Lander WY

South of Lander the Atlantic City Road off Hwy 28 takes you to Atlantic City and South Pass City. I have never seen sky the color blue as it appears here. I suspect it’s the “thin air” that is responsible, and while it makes a beautiful sky it is not treating me well. I’m looking forward to reaching lower levels. Unfortunately, the camera doesn’t capture the true color.

Atlantic City WY

Wild flowers and blue sky

On my way to South Pass City I met Eric Bruntjen of Yakima WA, a bicyclist who was taking a short rest. We were the only ones on the road so I stopped to say hello. He was part of the Tour Divide race from Banff, Alberta, Canada to Antelope Wells, New Mexico. It follows the Continental Divide and attracts riders from our continent, Great Britain, and Europe. In addition to his bicycle gear he wore a GPS unit on his right shoulder that relayed his position at all times. He’d injured his ankle the day before and had spent the night in South Pass City, but he graciously let me take his picture. If you think you’re a top cyclist you can find info here - http://tourdivide.org/ where I read that Eric had finished the race on July 4^th after three weeks on the road.

Eric Bruntjen

South Pass City had 2000 people by 1871 and was the seat of Carter County. Gold, the Carissa lode discovered in 1867, was the reason for its rapid growth. Remnants of the Carissa Mine still stand near the road outside the town. By 1875 South Pass City was almost a ghost town. Notice the sign proclaiming the first Masonic Lodge in Wyoming.

Carissa Mine

South Pass City

It was a South Pass City saloonkeeper and state senator, William Bright, who introduced a bill granting women the right to vote, hold office, and own property. When it passed in 1869, Wyoming women were the first in the country to participate in government.

On the way back to Hwy 28 I passed through varied landscapes, saw a couple of wary antelope, and waved to some semi-interested cattle.

Alone on the road

Antelope

Grazing Cattle

I crossed the Continental Divide at South Pass, 7550 feet above sea level, at 10:00 AM and glad to be descending to lower altitudes. Rolling prairie with the Wind River Mountains to the northwest are just as Alonzo described them when he passed this way on September 30, 1949 at 10:45 AM.

He wrote, “Very pleasant morning early, but the winds rose very high soon and blew a perfect gale from off the Wind River Mts. northward. A perfect storm of gravel and sand. It was rather tedious for our eyes. We passed over the great south pass of the Rocky Mts. midst this storm of earth. We crossed and bid the Sweetwater good-bye. Encamped on Pacific Creek 3 miles west of the pass.”

I traveled approximately the same path from Chicago in ten days that he covered in three months and twenty days, and I didn’t have to sleep under my transportation. I was always aware of the landscape and constantly imagined horses, wagons, and men--sometimes on foot--especially when the terrain was challenging, which was almost always.

The Oregon Trail continued west and followed the Sweetwater near Jeffrey City, rather than continuing north to Lander. It emerges from its path along the river and crosses Hwy 28 a few miles past the summit.

Wind River Mountains

Continental Divide, Elevation 7550'

Oregon Trail Marker

Next stop is Farson WY, where the altitude has dropped 1000 feet—a welcome place to pick up some lunch.

Farson WY

Immediately upon leaving Farson, Hwy 28 crosses the Big Sandy River; not to be confused with the Dry Sandy, the first stream emigrants reached after Pacific Creek, or Little Sandy, northeast of Farson. Alonzo mentions all three in his diary.

Big Sandy River History

Big Sandy River

The road passes through a barren, sandy area, known today as the Little Colorado desert or Badlands Hills, prior to meeting the Green River. After driving through the arid conditions I could understand Alonzo’s remark about the Green River, “Oh, it is a beautiful river.”

Badlands Hills

The Green River

Near the junction of Hwy 28 and the Green River I turn south on Hwy 372 and head towards I-80, one of the few times I’ve traveled on interstates. I’ve enjoyed these two-lane state and county roads all across the country. They have been free of traffic and billboards, and given me a chance to pull over for photographs or just gawk at the passing marvels without fear of an accident. Sometimes I went miles without passing another vehicle, and when I saw one they passed me at speeds far beyond the limit.

One last river to cross as I approach I-80 on Hwy 372, Blacks Fork, which flows through Fort Bridger, next stop on the journey. Alonzo described this area as ". . . a miserable country. The whole face of the country has been washed tremendously. The soil carried off (somewhere the Lord knows where, I don't)."

Approaching I-80 near Little America

Blacks Fork River